dangerous connor's pass, the blarney castle, and a last-minute change of plans!

The Connor Pass is the tallest mountain pass in Ireland. It is located in County Kerry on the Dingle Penninsula. The road bridges the gap between Dingle, the town, and the coast on the other side of the mountain.

We had been warned that Connor's Pass is very dangerous and NOT recommended for tourists... we were even told that many locals avoid it for the treacherous set-up. The travel books and websites we'd Amanda had scoured before our adventures also all warned against it... 

I'll be honest... I was nervous. 

Amanda was confident that this would be  the thrill of a lifetime.

It's a good thing I trust her. :)

We had a blast.

As you can see, we were up close and personal... and going a bit too fast for me to capture the full sign.

Remember how I mentioned Ireland had been going through a drought in 2010? I'd say it's still quite beautiful.

I don't believe any of the danger lie in the winds, apparently they were a bonus just for us. Amanda and I were (as always) avid photo-takers, eager to document each and every sweet memory we encountered on this grand adventure. We found a scenic carpark where in one direction, we were able to see as far as the Aran Islands off the coast of County Galway, and in the other direction, we were able to see the beautiful backdrop of all the memories we'd just made in Dingle town. 

We stepped out of the car and found ourselves in a wind tunnel. As you can see by the photos, we nearly blew away! We could not stop giggling. It was unlike anything either of us had ever experienced. Unfortunately, the photos do NO JUSTICE. It was really super intense!

Tour buses, trucks, campers, and caravans are not allowed on this road due to the lack of view (and space) allotted while driving. 

See what I mean?

Amanda did an incredible job driving through the pass. Only once did I truly fear at the sight of this face, merely because it was followed by the sight of this vehicle:

I so wish there was something in this photo to gage how crazy narrow this road really is! We did work up a sufficient amount of nerves and fear prior to the drive, but both agreed that it was well worth the risk. I can't wait to try it again on my next visit... hopefully not during a drought!

SO much of the beauty of Ireland, and much of Europe in general, is the romantic history that lies there in their many castles that accessorize their roadsides and rolling hills. I guess when you know the history in detail, it's a lot less romantic with all of the captives and slaughterings and lack of freedom... but the princes and princesses and the fight for freedom! Now, that is romantic. 

We came to a fork in the road. We could follow the path laid out for us, follow the traditional tourist trap, and continue onto the big city of Cork... OR we could find something new.

We took the blue pill.

We followed the plan. 

I just wanted to build a little anticipation for ya. ;) (You're welcome!)

Beautiful Blarney Castle!!

One of my favorite 'games', if you will, is the 'Small World Game'. Some may know it as the 'Sixth Degree', but it's basically meeting people and finding that you already have a connection with them through a mutual friend, location, or experience (I typically start with people and I love it, it's just so great.) Well, as soon as we stepped out of our car, I saw a group of gals walking our direction with an Okoboji sweatshirt on. I really doubted there were more than one Okoboji in the world and asked the young girl if she was from Iowa. Sure enough, she was from Spencer, Iowa and knew a sweet girl I grew up with from elementary school. They were visiting for Spring Break and were going the opposite direction of the path we'd so recently covered.

We were told daffodils were typically EVERYWHERE by St. Paddy's Day... that they normally took over ditches! This was the first we'd seen and they were clearly manually placed there for aesthetic reasons by the people of the Blarney Castle.

Irish wit never ceases to amuse me. :)

Amanda told me this was the only reason she agreed to come to this silly stop (she's not a huge fan of tourist spots -- a lot of times, I'm not either, I definitely most enjoyed the locals we met and following their suggestions). She's got a good point. It's an incredible view.

Thanks to this kind lad, I survived kissing the Blarney Stone and we were able to carry on our merry way.

The original plan took us back to the city of Cork where we'd landed just a week earlier. We arrived and found our B&B with little to no problem. We put our things in there and drove a little bit into town. 

It was that moment where it dawns on you that you're just not quite where you need to be but that you're very close and you actually do know what comes next... we looked at each other and said, nearly simultaneously, "I don't like the city! I feel claustrophobic! Let's drive back down to Kinsale and see if we can find anyone we met last week!"

And simple as that, we were a mere 20 minutes from the most beautifully, magical pub in the world.

We parked the car in the carpark overlooking Kinsale Harbor and marched inside. We found the same table we'd started our journey at and made ourselves comfortable. 

Before we knew it, the bartender and others were coming over to our table, recognizing us as 'The American Girls, John and Danny's friends'. Over the course of the night, we learned everything we needed to know about exploring Ireland (too bad they ALL weren't there a week prior!) If only I could find that napkin I'd taken notes on!! They informed us how to find the house where Def Leppard stays when they're in Ireland, where to find Sinead O'Connor and Bono, they told us about where the end of P.S. I Love You was filmed and how to get there - seriously, conversation packed with vital information for one (or two) looking to explore Ireland and all it has to offer... I wish I could find that napkin!!

Anywho. Just being a part of the local scene was magical. They filled us in on their personal lives and asked us about ours. They asked our favorite part of our trip and we responded that obviously it was Kinsale, which was why we decided to make one last stop before leaving. 

It felt as if we'd always been a part of their community. It was gorgeous.

Amanda tracing our trails to share with our new friends.

John enjoying a traditional pint.

Local, incredible Irish duo.

And last, but certainly not least, Danny, our new bar-tender!

kinsale, county cork

I did a LOUSY job of blogging while living in Europe... since it's currently ALWAYS on my mind (it's rough being as nostalgic as I am, honest...) I've decided there's no time like the present.

Although things might not be quite as fresh as they were 4 years ago, I'm going to do my best to re-live them and document what I can manage to tap back into. Photos will help, of this I am sure. :)

The family I was working for found a phenomenal deal on airfare from Geneva to Cork for one week in March, they let me know when they purchased their tickets that I could either go with them as their nanny, stay and work at the house - cleaning and caring for the animals, or take a week off and take advantage of the deal myself. Clearly, I chose the latter of the options.

My friend, Amanda, is a missionary working at the church I attended while living in the Geneva area. (More on the church in another post... I know I say things like that all the time, but it was so wonderful, my tangent would fill up too much of this post that's supposed to be all about my nostalgic memories of incredible Ireland!) Okay, so back to Amanda. :) Amanda works at the wonderful church I had the opportunity to be a part of while living abroad, she currently is working as a part of their church plant, but was the Children's Ministry Coordinator while I was in the area. She's such an incredible girl and a great friend. 

I think our adventurous sides are what initially drew us together. We're also both American, which probably had a little something to do with it. Anywho, she and I had gone to the South of France that previous autumn and I was able to see how talented she is at organizing fun AND relaxing trips. We meshed just perfectly. Have you ever traveled with someone who you absolutely love in everyday life, but can hardly stand or just all of a sudden absolutely clash with while trying to explore and see a new location? Travel, it's tricky. Amanda and I didn't have that issue, and we were both in dire need of some true rest and rejuvenation, so I invited her along on this next rendezvous. 

I'll be honest, I feel a little bad looking back on it, because she took care of EVERYTHING. She made such detailed plans for our timeless trip that everything was beyond perfect.

While we were landing, I remember the little boy I took care of saying, 'Uhh... Mom, are we in Iowa??' Ireland was going through their first drought in years and in landing we only saw flat land with lots of dead grass... it did look a lot like landing here in Iowa. 

Amanda and I and the family I worked for parted our ways. Amanda and I headed south in our trusty 'hired car'. Thankfully, Amanda had learned to drive a manual while she was living in Scotland. She, unlike myself, was already a pro. 

Upon arriving in Kinsale, we asked around for local grub and were directed to Patsy's Corner... this was just the beginning of our gastronomical gluttony. (Who knows how much of the weight I gained from living in Europe was from this trip alone.)

Amanda entering Patsy's Corner.

Amanda and I dining at Patsy's Corner.

Deliciously rich crumble with cream.

After a few hours on a plane and another hour or so getting the hired car, we were ready to see where we'd be sleeping. We had the privilege of meeting Chrissie and Tom at The Olde Bakery B&B, oh my word, they were so unbelievably darling. They were the most perfect hosts for a B&B, so welcoming and knowledgeable about EVERYTHING in Kinsale and all of southern Ireland.  

Our beloved B&B!

We figured with all the information Tom and Chrissie loaded us with, it was time for some exploring! We walked all along the town meeting people left and right. It was so great. (Not to mention refreshing from all the sitting we'd done traveling and calories we'd consumed at Patsy's!) We ended up at historical Charles Fort. I had never been to the Atlantic Ocean, so I was excited to see that we were there! The fort was really neat, but we'd happened to walk past an intriguing golden yellow building entitled 'Bulman'.... we needed to check it out...

Charles Fort.

The Bulman was just as breathtaking and charming on the inside as the outside hinted it would be. We sat next to the fireplace and each had a half pint of our favorites and took in our surroundings. We were both falling hard for this unbelievably welcoming, not to mention, gorgeous-in-every-possible-way land. (Even during a drought!)  

The most perfect pub in the whole entire world! The Bulman!

We enjoyed our drinks and discussed our travels and the folks we'd met all while watching the sky fade to these juicy colors of pink, purple, and copper. The night was coming alive. We hadn't been sitting too long when a local came up to try to get our story. He could see we weren't too quick to share, so he gave us a brief snapshot of his story. Ugh, my heart swells just at the thought of how beautiful all the people we met there are. Ireland in all it's glorious details makes me want to open a B&B and extend the hospitality they so kindly showed us to everyone that walks through my doors. Just throwing that out there. ;) 

John was his name and he'd lived in Kinsale for, I believe he'd said 15 years. He was originally from the lovely land of Wales (or perhaps that was his buddy, Danny...) and had, much like us, fallen in love with the beauty and charm of not only the land, but the people of Kinsale. He created his own business and had no intention of ever leaving. He shared some of his adventures with us of his time in America. He'd gone all along the west coast, starting in Alaska and ending up in South America. His adventures put my mind at ease from some of the things I had been experiencing right then and there. Ah, isn't there such beauty in camaraderie?! 

The sun setting over Kinsale Harbour... a mere 10 meters from the Atlantic Ocean!

One of the things Amanda and I had discussed over our toddies was that we absolutely HAD to find some authentic, traditional Irish music! John assured us that especially on a Thursday night, we'd have no problem. He offered to show us around to ensure we found the truest, most authentic traditional Irish music in the land. I know, I know. STRANGER DANGER. Well, if you know me, that's not always applicable. Regardless of where you are or who you're with, sometimes you just connect with people! We took him up on his offer and headed back to Ye Olde Bakery to freshen up. 

Our gorgeous view walking back to the B&B.

We thought it was beautiful in the daylight, but the view of Kinsale at night reminded us of a world renowned piece of art!

Back in Geneva-land, we had a sweet lil British market run by Jim. He carried these tasty lil treats or something similar, but for quite a fortune compared to what I found them for at the markets in Ireland -- I stocked up and, naturally, cherished every bite.

John was true to his word and met us out on the town with his friend, Danny. Despite their efforts, we never did find true Irish music. We hopped from pub to pub and found plenty of live music (also a nice treat!) but, alas, this wasn't the night for the real thing. John and Danny gave us tips and tricks for the rest of our journey and introduced us to the local 'nightclub' (my first ever!). Lady Gaga and Black Eyed Peas now always bring memories of gorgeous people with perfect accents. Ahh... Ireland really can't get any more wonderful.

Our search for traditional Irish music ended up being a bit of a wash.... the covers were nice though!

Isla Mujeres

Welp, we made it! After a long day of uneventful travel, my friend Tina, her family, and I have all made it safely to the island of Isla Mujeres.

It. is. BEAUTIFUL.

I just have to share one happening with you before I forget (as I forgot to pack my journal, you may be seeing a lot of updates!)

We're renting a house for the week and just returned from the grocery store/supermarcado for some staples. While we were there, we stood in the bakery section debating between their Bimbo/Wonder packaged bread OR fresh baked bread from the bakery section... Haha. It didn't take long before our decision was unianimous.

While taking it all in, looking at all the different pastries and such, we saw an employee of the store accidentally drop a loaf of bread on the floor... look up to see if anyone had caught him... MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH US... give that silly little five-year-old guilty grin, brush it off on his uniform.... and, get this, PUT IT BACK ON THE SHELF. Oh my goodness. It was SO comical. I couldn't help but crack up. I know I shouldn't have encouraged him, but the way he pulled it off was histerical!

That wasn't even the best part! I felt like we should have Bob Saget alongside us to commentate the events. Right after witnessing this old man act as if he was four-years-old, a two... maybe three-year-old little Mexican girl with beautiful black piggy tails and a striped top, waltzed her way through Tina, Dani, Glenda, and myself to check out the pastries for herself. She made three trips looking, smelling, and, yes, you guessed it, dipping her finger in the frosting of the pastries. Tina was the first to catch it. When she had all of our attention, she made her selection and got a good finger-full of sugar-laden yumminess and licked it off like only an adorable toddler can do. She really made great use of her time, because by the time she'd consumed a decent amount of sweetness, her mom realized she was missing. Ah. It was priceless.