through the Skellig Ring and on to Dingle

While bidding adieu to lovely Kenmare was bittersweet, we were excited for what the day had in store for us. Amanda had organized an extra special B&B for a couple of days - we each only spent an extra €5, but this place was phenomenal... just you wait.

Farewell, Kenmare! Until next time!

While we were beside ourselves with excitement for some serious R&R, the drive from Kenmare, through the Skellig Ring, and on to Dingle, was anything but a let-down. 

Much appreciated reminders!

Thankfully, we were on the same page when it came to cemeteries... both so intrigued by them! We made plenty of pit-stops to see the incredible detail and different Celtic knots. We were also so fascinated by the length of time many of these markers had been there -- some were HUNDREDS of years old!

Just LOOK at that incredible detail! It's so beautiful!

Quick pit-stop to stretch our legs!

Even through a drought, this land is gorgeous.

There are view points all along the drive on Skellig Road. Actually, pretty much anywhere there's a road near water, you're bound to find a view point within 30 km or so. We stopped to check out these incredible cliffs. From our point, we were able to see the Skelligs and Puffin Islands. Honestly though, I was more amazed that you can literally see forever. FOREVER. It's a wonder to me that people once thought the world was flat... I'd fear we'd sail right off if I were them! 

Apparently these cliffs are not only an incredible treat to the eyes and ever-so majestic, but according to geologists, are also approximately 400 millions years old... you know, give or take a few million. As I said earlier, you can see forever over the Atlantic. The smell and freshness of the air is indescribable. And though, I don't care much for heights, they probably wouldn't be quite as awesome if they weren't 1,000 feet high (300 meters). Definitely worth the stop.

I loved the commentary signs all over the place. ...not to mention the incredible views EVERYWHERE.

Right there, huh?

Oh, that's what those sharp wires mean?? I had no idea.

Just to build the anticipation a bit (and because I don't want to make the format on here all wacky and my photos downloaded just a few out of order...) I'm going to let you in on our stop at Portmagee. That's right, Portmagee. :) 

The welcoming committee.

So, as I mentioned a few posts ago, Amanda and I were determined to find the very best Fish and Chips in the south of Ireland. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm sure EVERY place we tried really was delicious, but we made the mistake of trying Wharton's first and NOTHING measured up in comparison. We did try another spot here in Portmagee, but again, just didn't quite make the cut. We also stopped at a cute little Nautical trinket shop. Otherwise, we just enjoyed the view, fresh air, and the opportunity to stretch our legs!

Our darling first sight of Portmagee.

Sometimes I just can't help myself.

We left Portmagee with one goal in mind: to make it to Dingle before sunset.

On our way, we not only saw some unbelievable gorgeous sights, but also a life-altering event...

Just across the bay from Portmagee -- you can see just a smidge of it on the left of this photo!

So, we parked the car and set out to take a few photos. The sun was high, the temperature was just right, and o man, EVERYTHING was absolutely beautiful. While exploring and capturing what we could, we heard this pitiful, borderline scary cry. A wail, if you will. Then we heard it again. We followed the sound and found a heard of sheep and one was giving birth! What a treat?! So, not only was the day and everything about it perfect, we were able to witness the birth of sheep, only the sweetest creature around. Ah, I was ecstatic. 

If you can see the people in the left of this photo, they're the ones that physically helped the mama sheep give birth. Amanda and I were mere bystanders watching from a distance. 

The sheep are colored for a number of different reasons. One reason is for ownership - if a farmer sees a sheep with a marking that doesn't match his sheep, he knows it's not his. They're still tagged for legal reasons, but the marking makes it easy to quickly identify that they aren't yours.

There is also coloring that is a result of mating... tups and rams are often either put in a harness that leaves a color on the ewe when mounted, or the ram has been marked prior to mating on his belly that will also leave a mark on the ewe so farmers are able to keep an eye on them and see which ones might be preggo. Later in the season, yet another color is thrown into the mix and the ewes that are re-mated gets that extra 'flair' so that the farmers know she'll be a late lil mama.

Unfortunately, the wind shield didn't help, but the sunset was breath-taking!

It looked like there was a fire on Dingle.

So close! Wait... Palm trees in Ireland?!

The Greenmount House.

This was, by far, the most wonderful and relaxing couple of days I think I've ever experienced. Ever.

As you can see, the room and entire facility was absolutely gorgeous. They didn't skimp on anything. We had views over looking the peninsula and a HUGE jacuzzi and lovely shower. We had room to spread our things out and a designated place to kick up our feet. 

Our room at the Greenmount House.

Pizza at the Blue Zone.

It had been a while since our fish and chips in Portmagee, so we were ready for a bite to eat when we decided to venture into town. It was a Sunday, so food was hard to find, but we made our way to an upstairs restaurant called, Blue Zone. The ambiance they had created was very different. They had couches and coffee tables in their main room and a bar in the same room. We got a courgette and spinach pizza that was absolutely delicious. (It was as good, if not better, than it looks in the photo above.) We sat in the blue lit room and geared up for a night of fiddle hunting. 

Fiddle hunting we did and fiddles we found. :) We also ran into a few couples we'd seen elsewhere on our journey. This small pub was packed to the point that we hovered and nearly fought over our tree stump seats. The music was magical. The cidre and stout were everything we'd hoped they'd be. 

It was, yet again, a near-perfect day.

kinsale to the stone circle to baltimore to mizen head to kenmare... the adventures continue :)

You can't stay in Ireland without starting your day with a lovely cuppa! (Or at least without being offered one...)

Our trip was off to a phenomenal start. I can't tell you when I first dreamt of visiting Ireland... I honestly think I've actually always dreamt of living in Ireland, but who knows where this life will take me, perhaps there's still time! I had been to Dublin a few months previous and had an absolute ball, but we were only able to visit and explore for a mere 12 hours... and, if I remember correctly it was from like 6am to 6pm - woof! All that to say, our first 12 hours in Kinsale was my dream come true. 

Every person we came in contact with was crazy kind. People would ask us questions with sincere interest and we'd end up running into them later and they'd recall everything we'd spoken about... there came a point where we'd be walking down the street and people would wave from across the street and say, 'Hey! It's the American girls, Amanda and Lauren!' 

I'm not even exaggerating. It was wonderful.

The lovely array of food to choose from aside from our lox omelettes Chrissie cooked up.

Tom and Chrissie were the first lovey's we encountered. On day one they gave us the run down of the best places in town and how to get around and filled us in on their family gossip and the people they'd had visit just the night before. We woke on day two to find this vast array of cereal and museli and fresh fruit and cheese and yogurt. Chrissie insisted we start with our cuppa and something from the table while she whipped up our lox omelettes. 

This pattern continued as our trip went on and worked out perfectly! We'd eat a large, late breakfast, snack in the afternoon, and find a local hot spot for dinner. 

Tom and Chrissie get visitors from ALL over the place, we used Rick Steve's book for a lot of the great ideas and stops during our trip -- it was fun to see that he and his family visited and kept in contact with them as well!

Only the most wonderful hosts in all of Ireland.

Although we were sad to leave Tom and Chrissie and their lovely conversation, we had an agenda to keep! ;) In other words, we had places to explore, miles to cover!

If you're ever planning a trip to Ireland, I suggest hiring a rental car. We had so much freedom in our explorations and such a satisfying trip because we were able to break up the day with stops anywhere and everywhere!

To buffer the drive-time, we had essential tools to keep us in the best of spirits: Fox's ginger creme cookies, the melodies of Bob Marley and Michael Buble, and tips and guidance not only from Rick Steves but also from Amanda's impeccable research and organization.

Each road trip requires certain tools... these were the requirements for this trip: Fox's ginger cremes, Rick Steves' guidance for stops and deals, Bob Marley and Michael Buble, and Amanda's impeccable organization.

Our first stop away from Kinsale was at the Drombeg Stone Circle. Just about 30 kms from Kinsale, Drombeg was easy to find on our way towards Sibbereen and Kilarney. 

Drombeg is one of the better known stone circles in Ireland and was probably part of a small settlement. The circle dates back to ~150BC/150AD, although in the center of the circle pieces of potter and a pot containing human remains that have been carbondated to 800 or 900 BC... Crazy! 

Isn't she gorgeous?? Doesn't this look like I ripped it right out of a Gap catalog?

Stone Circle.

Another stop we made on our travels was in a little port town called, Baltimore. Although the town was lovely, there wasn't too terribly much going on, so we just passed through... 

Baltimore, County Cork

She's awesome.

One of the destinations in our planning was Mizen Head - it was meant to be an all-weather experience and a MUST-SEE... it's located on a spectacular edge of high cliffs with swirly Atlantic Ocean tides surrounding it. The Mizen is knowns for it's wildflowers and sightings of wildlife, dolphins, whales, seals, gannets, kittiwakes, and choughs... Unfortunately, not only were we there during a drought, the Mizen Visitor Centre was under construction. So, no dolphins whales, gannets, kittiwakes, or choughs this visit. We were able to befriend a few darling cows. One of my favorite things to do.

Another reason we'd hoped to make it to Mizen and it's Visitor Centre is that just south of it is the Fastnet Rock Lighthouse, Ireland's Teardrop. This was the last landfall seen by many emigrants to America and one of Marconi's first telegraph stations. So, lots of interesting things!

Are those not the most incredible colors you've ever seen?!

Almost to Mizen Head! Quick photo op!

If you have the option of hiring a rental car... or not... I suggest going for it. We were able to do so much of what we wanted to do whenever we wanted to do it with this bad boy. This was honestly the most perfect trip.

I just love cows.

Made it!

I can't tell you how many pictures I have like this. :) They never get old!

Home of the coldest loo in the history of going potty anywhere but the Arctic Tundra.

Double stone bridge, cool!

Don't you just love their verbiage?? :)

The view from our B&B in Kenmare.

We arrived to Watersedge B&B only to find this fun little note welcoming us in. We made it! While in Kinsale, our new friends, John and Danny, had mentioned that the very best fish 'n chips in all of Ireland was in Kenmare at Wharton's Traditional Fish & Chips. 

The locals never lead you astray. 

He was ABSOLUTELY RIGHT. 

Unfortunately, we'd decided before we left to taste our way across Ireland with fish 'n chips and were constantly disappointed as this was our first stop. We spoke with the man working that night and he informed us that all of the fish is FRESH cod (never frozen), the chips are hand cut, the batter and tartar sauce are made perfectly right there too... it was an economical meal and the staff was friendly (of course, we're still in Ireland).  

Absolute perfection.

After our phenomenal meal, we managed to find a local pub with traditional Irish music... even an accordion! We deemed that we were crashing someone's first communion or something as there were whole families on the dance floor and a large cake on one of the tables. It was very quaint and refreshing.